Thursday, May 27, 2010

Seeing the Sightseer

So it's been quite a while since I've updated this blog, but now I'm gonna have four posts in one day. This blog was originally made for the study abroad classes I was taking while I went to Tanzania, thus the name "Giving Credit Where It's Due" because I was doing this all for school credits. It was agreed upon that I would write a large thesis paper for each of the four independent study classes I would be taking. There were four classes so to cover the fact that it would be the only classes I took for a full semester. Each of the four classes had a different topic for me to write my thesis about, them being my learning experience while in Tanzania, comparing the teaching styles of Tanzania and the United States, the cultural influence the tribes of the Chagga and the Maasai have had on Tanzania, and examining the effect tourism has on countries with a focus on the European countries I visited.Now that I've graduated I can share all of these essays with you, they are a great description and examination of the time I spent traveling. Each of the four posts will begin with this introduction before the actual essay, just to make sure all of you readers understand that these four posts are all my essays. I hope you enjoy.

Seeing the Sightseer (tourism essay)

Being called a tourist is something people have a tendency to try to avoid; they will go to great lengths to do something that sets them apart from being a tourist. I shared this mentality at the beginning of my travels; I was also quick to judge those around me for their “touristy” actions. I saw myself as an informed and conscientious traveler, but now I have a much different definition of a tourist and a traveler. One definition that we came to in the “Tourist and the Traveler” class was that a tourist was somebody who visited another place with the intention of returning home, while a traveler was someone who visited places and never really had a permanent home to return to. I think this is an accurate description, but I also saw that tourists visited a foreign place usually because they wanted to see something, whereas a traveler usually traveled because they were trying to escape something.

The purpose of this independent study was to examine the behavior of sightseers and their effect on the places they visit. During my travels I began to not only examine the sightseer, but the traveler. I was also given an interesting opportunity when my camera broke early into my time in Africa. The camera is really the most important tool to many tourists, I was no different as I went through multiple ordeals all just in an attempt to get my camera fixed. In the end I never got my camera fixed for the entire trip and it forced me to step out of the most common behavior of tourists. In the film Cannibal Tours, I had commented on how the tourists were continually snapping pictures and while sometimes they were willing to pay to take a picture, other times they would have a complete lack of respect for the people they were taking pictures of. I witnessed the same thing in Africa, there were multiple occasions of this but the most prevalent was when I went to the Serengeti. Before we made it into the actual Serengeti Park our safari guides stopped at a Maasai village, the guides had organized in advance for us to have a cultural tour of the Maasai people. One thing that we had been told before is that Maasai will be very angry if you take a picture of them without asking for their permission and usually they will ask for you to pay for the picture. We were excited when the guides told us that they had already paid the Maasai for our visit so we were welcome to take as many pictures as we liked. When commenting on the Cannibal Tours I had described the people with their cameras to be similar to flies and the natives had to put up with it because there were too many to swat them away. This was an interesting parallel because many of us on the Serengeti safari complained about the flies. Flies are persistent in Africa, you swat it away and as soon as your hand is back at your side the fly is back on the same spot, also Maasai villages are centered around their goats and cows and their droppings attract a lot of flies. So here we are being pestered by flies that the Maasai have gotten used to and the Maasai are being pestered by all the cameras, similar to the flies.

While we were in the village they Maasai began to dance for us, the Maasai have a dance were all the men bounce on their toes and jump high into their air, straight up. This dance is supposed to impress the women, the man who jumps the highest is the most impressive, but when they started dancing there seemed no reason for doing it other than because there were tourists and they were getting paid. In Dean MacCannell’s The Tourist he says, “certain groups work up a show of their group characteristics (their ceremonies, settlement patterns, costumes, etc.) especially for the benefit of sightseers.” (MacCannell 52) That is a perfect description of our visit to the Maasai village, the women put on special neck jewelry and the men did their dance, all solely for our benefit. Later I befriended a Maasai named Zac and he told me that the huts they had for their village were specifically made for tourists to see, they were made to look like the village was in more squalor that they actually were, an attempt to get the tourists to give them more money. MacCannell put it best when he said, “ what is taken to be real might, in fact, be a show that is based on the structure of reality,” (MacCannell 95) we were all convinced that we were getting a glimpse into the real life of the Maasai, but all of it was a staged performance done for monetary gain. That being said, many Massai villages do live desperate lives and the huts built in the village we visited were the traditional style of Maasai huts, it’s just that modern Maasai villages build a much more aesthetic and dependable hut.

Once we were in the Serengeti everyone would scramble at the chance to snap a photo of the animals. It got to the point that everyone was so obsessed about getting the picture that they didn’t think about much else. There was one point where our jeep stalled right next to a herd of elephants, as the driver tried to get the car going some of the elephants began to posture themselves defensively towards us. The driver told us all to be quiet so as not to anger the elephants, but one of the people in our jeep was only thinking about getting a good picture and asked the driver if he could make some noise so that the elephants will do something interesting. There are two things intriguing about this situation; first, the tourist cared so much about getting a good picture that he unknowingly risked all of our lives and second, the way he wanted them to “do something interesting” sounds very similar to a child at the zoo. “Sightseers are motivated by a desire to see life as it is really lived…and at the same time, they are deprecated for always failing to achieve these goals.” (MacCannell 94) The Maasai village is an example of seeing life as it is really lived, but perceiving the Serengeti like a big zoo is a moment where we are originally seeing life as it is really lived but we are deprecated because of our own mindset. The Serengeti is a good example of the effect tourists can have on an area; the acreage of nature reserve was determined because of the Tsetse fly. The fly has a bite that can cause serious and possibly even fatal sickness and so originally the entire area of the Serengeti was inhabited by the Tsetse fly and so the area was left untouched. Then a technique was developed where blue cloth would be put up, the color attracts the flies, and then the insecticide on the fabric would kill them. This opened up the entire area and it was made into a nature preserve because of tourism. Tanzania primarily gets its revenue from tourism, either from the Serengeti or Mount Kilimanjaro, so the country’s government has a very environmentalist stance. In an economically desperate country like Tanzania animals can be at risk of their habitat being exploited for natural resources or expanding human infrastructure, but the tourist desire for authenticity gives these countries a reason to leave areas untouched so tourists can see wild animals in their natural habitat.

But the situation is different with Mount Kilimanjaro, where tourists have a negative impact on the mountain. Because of the amount of people who climb the mountain, wildlife has been scared away from hiking trails and plants have been trampled. In addition with the campers comes their waste, camp sites are notorious for having garbage scattered around and most lavatories are just outhouses over a cliff. Tourists climb the mountain because they want to marvel in its natural beauty, but the climbing itself is destroying that beauty. But Kilimanjaro does raise awareness to climate change due to the receding glacier on the mountain, when climbers reached the mountain top, it used to be covered in snow, now there’s barely any left. Climate change is all too real in Tanzania, where not only is Kilimanjaro loosing its picturesque snowcap but also a slight change in climate can cause a drought or throw off agricultural practices. In Tanzania most people survive as subsistence farmers and so that deviation can cause starvation.

After my time in Africa I then flew to the Netherlands to start my backpacking trip across Europe. While the Netherlands does not depend on tourism as it’s main source of revenue, Amsterdam is most certainly a city for tourists and tourists have a direct effect on the country’s laws. The two big attractions for Amsterdam are marijuana and prostitutes and these are both made legal because of the amount of money that can be made from it. Tourists are not the only ones to purchase marijuana or prostitutes, but they are a majority. It’s important to point out that the red light district and nearly all of the coffee shops are walking distance from the Amsterdam Train Station, which has a stop directly under the Amsterdam Airport; thus making it very easy and accessible to any tourist. But there is more to Amsterdam and nearly all of it is walking distance, while I was there I visited the Torture Museum and the Anne Frank Museum, as well as walked through town hunting down old cathedrals. When talking with my friends back home they were so disappointed that I didn’t have my camera fixed and told me I should get a disposable camera so that I could take pictures of all of the wonderful things I saw. It struck me as odd that they were more disappointed than I was, it was like they wanted to live vicariously through my photos, as if seeing the photo was just as good as actually being there. I also found it interesting that tour guides warned us that you shouldn’t take pictures of the prostitutes because they’ll get really angry, much like the Maasai. The difference between the prostitutes and Maasai is that Maasai don’t want their pictures taken because they feel they are being exploited if they don’t gain some money from it, while the prostitutes in Amsterdam didn’t want their pictures taken because they wanted to preserve their anonymity, but it’s also interesting that guides warned tourists which probably means it was a common problem. A lot of the attractions of Amsterdam seemed to cover negative moral aspects, either indulgences in the taboo or memorials to darker days. I describe Amsterdam as being the European equivalent to Las Vegas, a place were you can taste the forbidden and then go back to your normal lives without a guilty conscience.

I was also in Amsterdam in time to witness Queen’s Day, the holiday to celebrate the birthday of the Queen of the Netherlands. It interested me that a large amount of the people who were celebrating Queen’s Day were British tourists, but this is because Queen’s Day is mostly known for just an excuse to drink all day long. Some tourists told me about Queen’s Night, which was where you would start drinking the night before Queen’s Day and then keep drinking through the whole day. I didn’t drink on Queen’s Day because I had to catch a bus for Berlin that night, so I ended up roaming around town aimlessly wasting time until I needed to go to the bus. If I had a camera or was drinking, Queen’s Day probably would have been a lot of fun, but without either of those I was less distracted by the pretty sights and started to notice the less appealing sights, like the huge amounts of broken beer bottles on the ground or the excess of trash floating in the canals. Eventually I ran into some Dutch people who had come from a nearby town to celebrate Queen’s Day and I spent some time hanging around with them. They told me how drinking on Queen’s Day was largely just something tourists did. Because I was American they wanted to take me to McDonald’s, it was almost like I had become an attraction to them. They wanted to ask me about what it was like in America and how different it was from the Netherlands. While we were in McDonalds, one person got some kind of text message telling them there had been an assassination attempt on the queen. Every Queen’s Day the queen comes to Amsterdam and lays a wreath at the National Monument, which memorializes the victims of World War II, and when her motorcade was driving back someone attempted to drive their car into the queen’s car. All of this was so surreal for me, tourists are always pursuing authenticity and this was almost too authentic for me. The assassination attempt failed, but it was something that rocked me out of the feeling of this trip being for fun. It felt like I was watching a movie that was suddenly turned off and the lights flicked on.

“Modern international sightseeing possesses its own structure, a collective sense that certain sights must be seen.”(MacCannell 42) My next stop was Berlin and there was certainly a collection of sights that must be seen. I spent the most time during my travels in Berlin and I still didn’t get see everything I wanted. I saw the Berlin Wall, Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate, the TV Tower, Potsdam, the San Souci Palace, and the grave of Fredrich the Great. But sometimes this sightseeing process diminishes the experience of each of the sights. Some tourists were treating these important symbols of history as a grocery list; just take the picture prove that you’ve been there and then move on to the next thing. Because I wasn’t continually trying to get a good picture of something I had more time to actually soak everything in. The San Souci Palace was the most staggering, the most to take in, and the sight that is done the least justice with pictures. The very word “picturesque” describes how when we see something beautiful it makes us want to take a picture, but why is taking a picture considered the best way to cherish something’s beauty? The “material type of commodity retains an important position in modern society only insofar as it has the capacity to deliver an experience,” (MacCannell 23) meaning that the camera is meant to simulate an experience for those who see the pictures. A picture serves much like a souvenir, something that serves no functional purpose for the owner but is a reminder of the place they visited. Pictures are displayed much in the same way that game trophies are displayed, mounted on the wall for guest to see and serve as proof of your accomplishments.

My favorite sight in Berlin was when I visited Tacheles. Tacheles was originally a shopping mall built before World War II, but during the war bombings leveled half of the building; afterwards the remaining half was left largely abandoned. Squatters began to move in, including a large amount of artists, now it is seen as an art center; there is graffiti style artwork across every inch of wall inside the building. The artists are no longer squatters, someone bought the building to prevent its demolition and charged the artists a reasonably cheap rent. The thing that was so striking for me about this place was the fact that it looks so dull from the outside, it looks much like the many other pre-World War II buildings still standing, but walking inside was almost like walking into Wonderland. By the time I had gotten to Berlin I had become accustomed to being an outsider and was used to being in unfamiliar surroundings. To a degree I was desensitized to the things around me, I still marveled at the various sights but Tacheles was not a normal sightseeing moment. I had been taken there by a tour guide, but usually a tour guide takes you to a designated sight and in some way tells you “look at this, it is interesting,” whereas when we came to Tacheles we were told about the building and then for the most part just set loose. There was so much to see in Tacheles, a usual tourist sight has a plaque or something to focus your attention upon what is important about this place, but in Tacheles there wasn’t anywhere you could look that didn’t have something to catch your attention. Earlier I had said that I had become accustomed to unfamiliar surroundings during my travels, this was something done largely because of the amount of overload I would get otherwise; but in Tacheles there was no way to block out the overload short of closing your eyes. It essentially brought you back to the feeling of wonder you had when you first arrived.

After Berlin I went to Prague and stayed with my friend Ondrej. Staying with Ondrej gave me a closer experience of authenticity, but “no one is exempt from the obligation to go sightseeing except the local person.” (MacCannell 43) Ondrej took me around town to show me things like the Prague Castle but then when his family went on their own sightseeing trips to the Czech countryside, Ondrej would send me into the city to roam around on my own. It was a weird tradeoff because I was getting a taste of authentic Czech lifestyle, except for when Ondrej wanted to be a tourist. It seemed that he didn’t want to be a tourist around a tourist, something I don’t feel MacCannell touched on. I observe the same thing in my own behavior when I’m living in Los Angeles, if friends come to visit I tend to want to take them to the more “authentic” places, help them reach the authenticity that every tourist pursues and I don’t want to be involved with things like taking pictures with the Hollywood sign in the background because it makes me seem like a foreigner in my own home.

It was also intriguing that one of Ondrej’s favorite movies was Borat. For him Borat was a depiction of how Americans, or possibly locals in any country, assume that foreigners don’t know any better and are confused by local customs and so foreigners are generally allowed to get away with a lot of stuff that locals would never be able to do. While Americans focused primarily on the crudeness of Borat, Ondrej over looked this, partly because of the Czech sense of humor. After repeated invasions and occupations the Czech Republic developed a general distrust for authority figures, especially those from other countries, and a dark sense of humor. An example of this dark sense of humor is an entire city that is supposed to be one big practical joke, the city runs as if it were in Medieval Times with a king and castle and they make their own passports, which are of no actual legal standing. George W. Bush is even an owner of one of these passports, but it was requested to be returned when he became so unpopular that the city no longer wanted to be associated with him. President Obama came to Prague just a few weeks before I had arrived and many Czech people were ecstatic to see him as he gave his speech at the Prague castle, even Ondrej had been excited over his arrival. But during the time I spent with him we had frequent debates over whether or not he would actually be as good as everyone was saying he was. Ondrej brought up some good points and it was interesting how he had never let his excitement blind him of possibly bad outcomes, after all Hitler and Stalin had been charismatic leaders but the Czech learned the hard way that they were not to be trusted.

My overall experience in Prague was always some kind of blend of two aspects. The city itself is a blend of old and new, you will see modern clubs and metropolitan shopping plazas in the same area of castles, 18th century buildings, and Cold War Russian apartment buildings. When in Berlin things felt more clear-cut, that there were certain areas with modern buildings, other areas had pre World War II buildings, and others had medieval; but in Prague everything was squeezed in next to each other. It really gave you a perspective of how all of those eras had an influence on each other and how each individually contributed to what the Czech Republic is today. I also spent a lot of time in museums while in Prague, which is generally much less popular among most tourists. I found it intriguing that tourists will visit foreign countries with the claim of wanting to experience the local culture and yet they skip museums, which have a vast collection of local culture. Germany is an exception due to a majority of their tourist sights being World War II landmarks. While the Czech Republic still has a large amount of World War II and Cold War historical landmarks, they are not what primarily attract tourists. Museums are another moments of locals taking on tourist roles, like when Ondrej visited the castles, because museums offer lessons on local culture that most locals may not even know. I also visited an exhibit in Prague that was a collection of Aztec gold, which I initially found strange because I felt that was something exclusive to the Americas. But as I thought more about it, the exhibition of Aztec gold in the US in no more outlandish than in the Czech Republic because both were completely separate from the culture on display. Tourists, with me included, come to foreign countries with the idea that the country has a culture that is untouched by outside influences or we see such influences to tarnish the authenticity of our cultural experience while in that country. But in reality, globalization has caused hardly any culture to be completely separate from foreign influences.

After Prague I went to Vienna and this is when the glamour of my trip began to fade. Vienna was a beautiful place with many amazing sights, but this when I began to run out of money. This was when it became clear to me that tourism is something exclusive to the leisure class. I won’t deny that I am a part of that leisure class just in the fact that I was able to travel to Africa and across Europe, but when one is on vacation they try to live a life without finances, at least until they return home, and this is a mindset not available to the working class. There were repeated times where I had to ask my parents to put more money into my bank account throughout my trip, but once I was in Vienna I was getting tired of always having to ask and my parents couldn’t afford much more. I tried to enjoy the sights while still being frugal, which turns out to be quite a challenge. Vienna, much like other cities popular to tourists, had many things to see and do but hardly any of them were for free.

At one point I visited a castle where you were only charged if you wanted to enter the castle, which meant I spent plenty of time admiring the gardens outside. It was striking to me to find statues of Greek gods throughout the garden, though I had seen the same thing at some of the castles in Potsdam, Germany. It was a feeling much like when I saw the Aztec gold in Prague, I was initially thrown off by there being a culture from a different country in a place where I was trying to experience the local culture. At the San Souci there was even fake Roman ruins built for the enjoyment of Fredrich the Great. Fredrich had visited Greece and was captivated by the ruins and so the construction of fake ruins on his own palace gardens was the equivalent to a post card or picture or souvenir for tourists today, it was a synthesized experience to bring back memories for the owner and display for friends and guests.

I mentioned how many tourists like to have a vacation without financial worries, this something usually only available for people who have enough money to not need to care about such things. But the middle class was given this same opportunity thanks to credit cards. Nearly everything in Europe had to option to be paid with credit card, I wouldn’t be surprised if the women in Red Light District even accepted them. I would have been another one of those tourists if it hadn’t been for my only credit card being American Express. With “American” in the name it should have been obvious that most places would not accept the card, but before my travels I was still under the tourist mindset that the world would work around my wants and needs. It turns out that American Express is only accepted at the super expensive, high-class restaurants and hotels. My need to spend money that I didn’t have and the denial of the credit card I had made me examine the general interaction between tourists and credit cards. Thinking about all the credit card ads I had seen, a good handful had something to do with tourism and being able to use your credit card no matter where you go in the world. I then noticed that credit cards have become a major role in modern tourism.

Eventually my parents and I cam to the conclusion that it was costing too much for me to continue traveling through Europe and that I would come home a month early. I took a bus back to Amsterdam where I would catch my flight home. I have an uncle who lives just outside of Amsterdam and he took me to his place to figure out how I was going to get home. Talking with my parents it turned out that the next available flight through the booking agency we had used wasn’t for another five days. My parents were under the impression that I’d be able to stay with my uncle until then, but my uncle said that wasn’t going to work and I was going to have to find a hostel in Amsterdam for the next five days. I found my uncle to be an interesting case of tourism. He had traveled a lot in the past, rarely owning a house for more than a few years before moving to a new place, and he told me how he felt like he didn’t really have a permanent place to call home. He essentially felt that he was what we defined as a traveler in the “Tourism and the Traveler” class, it was surreal how similar he and his wife were to Port and Kit from The Sheltering Sky. They felt that they were travelers with no home to return to, but when I came into the equation I was an obligation of permanence, of standing still. They began telling me that they already had plans of all of these places that they had wanted to go and they didn’t want to have to be responsible for me. It was from this that I now feel that a majority of travelers don’t avoid permanent residence because they enjoy it but because they are trying to escape something. My uncle owned an actual house in the Netherlands, but whenever I asked him if this was now where he felt like he wanted to stay he would tell me how he liked it in the Netherlands but didn’t plan to make it his permanent home and then went on telling me about various travel plans. It seems that both tourists and travelers are pursuing an experience of authenticity in another country, but tourists are afraid of being away from home for too long and travelers are afraid of staying in one spot for too long.

I’d have to say that the most authentic experience for me was those five days in Amsterdam waiting for my flight. I only had forty Euros left and I had to make it last for five days, luckily the hostel I was in had small rooms, each with their own bathroom and a television. I was the only one in my room for the first three days and so I spent most of that time doing what was free, watching TV, taking long showers, and using the free Internet at the library. There was also a fast food restaurant right next to the hostel that was like the European equivalent to McDonald’s. The food was extremely cheap and not very high quality, there was even a screen in the shop that showed the food being made on conveyor belts and assembly lines, as if that was a selling point. Europe is acclaimed by most Americans for having amazing cuisine, which they certainly do, but it was interesting in such a place to be having such bargain food. McDonald’s is known as sacrificing the quality of its food for the quantity and is generally a symbol of Americanization, but when I visited a few McDonald’s while I was in Europe the food was actually higher quality than back home. America is also commonly known for it’s fast pace and industrialism which is perfectly embodied by the American invention of fast food, so it was a surreal experience for me to be eating at place that could be called more American than McDonald’s.

So I finally get back home and after the five days of skim pickings I was happy to leave. I had braced for a feeling of reverse culture shock, but it never really came to me, I feel that my time in Europe after Africa was a kind of gradual readjustment back to American culture, Europe was more modern than Africa but still felt foreign enough to not be just like being back in America. It was a weird interacting with people at first when I got back home because there was this ebb and flow on how much I should talk about my travels. People were eager to hear about my experiences, but it seemed there were only certain times where it was appropriate for me to bring them up. I had the continuing worry that talking about my travels would make me sound elitist and stuck up, I even experienced that at time when I was talking with other people that had been traveling. If we had both been to Europe then there would always be the follow up question of, “Where did you go,” and then it almost felt like it was a competition of comparing achievements. I would tell them where I had gone and then they would tell me how I “absolutely must go the Italy next time.” Saying that I must go felt much like how MacCannell said how tourism has become almost like a religious pilgrimage, but also it made it seem that to these other tourists that visiting Europe was like a collectors set and you hadn’t accomplished anything until you had the whole set. Plus there was the wording of saying, “next time,” why is it assumed that there is going to be a next time. I’ve made more travel plans but I want to go to Japan, Australia, and South America before I go back to Europe. It could be argued that my own travel plans display a mentality similar to that of the European tourist collecting the set of European countries to visit, only that my mindset is to collect the set of visiting all of the continents. This may be true, but personally I’m more compelled by wanting to experience cultures that are extremely different from each other and have experiences I’ve never had before, whereas I feel a majority of the countries you can visit in Europe won’t offer much of a culture shock.

I felt like there was a major change in the tourism industry in recent years. I always heard people raving about how they had a relatively cheap trip through Europe and met some amazing people while traveling all on their own. From my personal experience I say that traveling through Europe is no longer cheap, most tourists generally keep to themselves, and traveling is generally more enjoyable when there is someone else experiencing it all with you. Hostels are generally considered to be the cheap alternative to staying at a hotel, sacrifice some of the comforts and you get a lower price. While hostels are still much cheaper than hotels the prices have certainly increased. I had met people who had backpacked through Europe only a year or two before and said that the average price for a decent hostel was around ten Euros but when I arrived the average price was closer to sixteen Euros. Factoring in that this was a necessary expense on a daily basis and the exchange rate with the dollar steadily decreasing in value at the time, it really began to cost me a lot just to have a bed to sleep in. There are also many affiliate groups that you can register to become a member for and you will get price reductions on various travel expenses. I registered for Hostellers International at the first hostel I stay at in Amsterdam, but then didn’t find any restaurants or hostels associated with Hostellers International for the entire rest of my trip. But then there is also the cost of transport, I had originally planned to take the train from one country to another, but the cheapest ride I could find was still over a hundred dollars. Later some people had just told me that I wasn’t looking in the right place for a cheap train right, but regardless it resulted in me taking the bus instead. There are passes that are offered for sale where you are able to get on any of their buses between certain dates, but my uncle had told me that unless I was going to be traveling to a lot of different countries in a short time that the pass wouldn’t be worth it. In the end it turned out that the pass would have been worth it and even a train pass would have resulted in saving me some money.

Then there is the need for travel companions. I witnessed that nearly every tourist I saw in all the hostels I stayed at had at least one person traveling with them. The obvious reason is safety, when you’re in a foreign land it’s always good to have someone who can watch after you when you don’t know anyone in the area. But traveling with someone else is also just more enjoyable. This was the most apparent to me during Queen’s Day, there was fun going on all around me but there was no one to enjoy it with, I hadn’t befriended any of the other people at the hostel, I didn’t know a lick of Dutch, and it was a long time before I eventually met the locals who took me to McDonald’s and even then, they were the ones who initiated the conversation. When you travel in a group you have some who you can recount your experiences with, someone who will be able to reminisce about all the fun times you had. For me, I can only tell others about my experiences with the feeling of, “you should have been there.”

For as much as tourists expect all of the leisure of home to be available to them, regardless of where in the world they decide to visit, there is also a lot expected from tourists by the various establishments that profit from them. Some hostels don’t provide their own linens and while some will let you rent some for an extra price, there are others that don’t help you out at all. So if you show up at one of these hostels and don’t have any sheets then you can’t sleep at the hostel because sheets are required for sanitation reasons. Then there is the expectation that you have a laptop, which I did not. All hostels offer Internet access now and generally they charge for it, but at some places the Internet was free if you had a laptop of your own. But the most irritating thing that caused me the most grief is that none of the computers offered to the public had any form of a word processing program. This might have been my own expectation as a tourist for the places I visit to provide everything that is available to me at home, but I thought that something like Microsoft Word was standard with most computers. While I was in Tanzania, where I was surprised to even have Internet access, the computers had Microsoft Word. I could possibly see it as people using word processing programs would take up more time on the computer, but wouldn’t that generate more money?

So what did I take away from my travels? The most important observation I had from my travels is what truly motivates us to travel the world. We travel because we want to learn more about the world around us, there are many selfish and manipulative elements to tourism but the root motivation behind it all is a pursuit for knowledge. Additionally, we don’t travel only to learn about other countries, but to also learn about ourselves. I can definitely say that I am a different man now than I was before my trip; some of these changes can easily be linked to things like witnessing the poverty in Africa or the less wasteful lifestyles of Europeans, but sometimes the changes are more subtle, like becoming more financially responsible when you are faced with the problem of trying to manage a limited amount of money that you need to make last for the rest of your trip. I’ve also witnessed a lot of people who come back from Europe and continue to go on about how life is so much better there and how people are better in every way than here in America. Europe may be more progressive on various issues than America, but they still have plenty of their own vices and the people who praise Europe for being so much more socially advanced than America never really went bellow the surface. Tourism is highly materialistic and selfish, but at the same time it is significantly about self-discovery. Even when you have the parents who drag their whining kids in front of the Eiffel Tower so they can quickly snap a picture and then go back to their hotel room, on a deeper level those kids have somehow been affected by the fact that they have gone out of their comfort zone and seen a foreign country. In the film Cannibal Tours the tourist didn’t really immerse themselves in the local culture, it was more of just a photo opportunity for them, but when they return home they will still have important memories tied to the pictures they had taken. The tourism industry is a trade off, it’s a great way for a country to generate revenue and raise global awareness of their history and culture, but in an effort to cater to tourists some of the original culture is lost as they become more modernized.

Works Cited

Bowles, Paul. The Sheltering Sky. New York: Vintage Books, 1990.

MacCannell, Dean. The Tourist. Berkley: University of California Press, 1999.

Cannibal Tours. Dir. Dennis O’Rourke. Institute of Papua New Guinea Studios, 1988.

Maasai and Chagga Today

So it's been quite a while since I've updated this blog, but now I'm gonna have four posts in one day. This blog was originally made for the study abroad classes I was taking while I went to Tanzania, thus the name "Giving Credit Where It's Due" because I was doing this all for school credits. It was agreed upon that I would write a large thesis paper for each of the four independent study classes I would be taking. There were four classes so to cover the fact that it would be the only classes I took for a full semester. Each of the four classes had a different topic for me to write my thesis about, them being my learning experience while in Tanzania, comparing the teaching styles of Tanzania and the United States, the cultural influence the tribes of the Chagga and the Maasai have had on Tanzania, and examining the effect tourism has on countries with a focus on the European countries I visited.Now that I've graduated I can share all of these essays with you, they are a great description and examination of the time I spent traveling. Each of the four posts will begin with this introduction before the actual essay, just to make sure all of you readers understand that these four posts are all my essays. I hope you enjoy.

Maasai and Chagga Today
(cultural influence essay)

Tanzania preaches that all of these tribes have been united under the common language of Swahili. All tribes in Tanzania still teach their children their tribal language and traditions, but most feel that their traditions are at risk as more of the younger generation want to learn more about the traditions of the many other tribes throughout the country. The Chagga for the most part still live in the territory that they’ve always lived in, the area surrounding Mount Kilimanjaro, while the Maasai’s original territory went across both Tanzania and Kenya. Both tribes have adapted is very different ways to modern society, the Maasai keep themselves as separated from modern society as possible and try to maintain the way of life they have always had, while the Chagga have for the most part accepted modern society.

While I was volunteering I stayed in the town of Moshi, which is the closest metropolitan area to Kilimanjaro. Moshi was almost entirely inhabited by Chagga, there’s no restriction for people of other tribes to live in the area, but most people didn’t move far out of their own tribal area. Whereas the Maasai are usually easy to distinguish by their clothing of red and purple sheets, the Chagga look just like any other average person. Moshi is usually where tourists go when they plan to climb Kilimanjaro and so there are many safari companies within the city. Moshi is Swahili for smoke and it got this name because it used to almost always be cloudy in the city from the clouds that came down from Kilimanjaro, but climate change has caused cloud formations to not go as far out from the mountain and so Moshi has become much more dry. One man told me how he could remember when they didn’t need to worry about mosquitoes in Moshi because it rained so often that there would never be water that sat for long enough for mosquitoes to lay their eggs.

The Maasai territory, known as Maasailand, is between Lake Victoria and Kilimanjaro and going across both Tanzania and Kenya. The formation of the Kenyan-Tanzanian border was done on purpose by the British and German colonizing powers so to divide and weaken the Maasai. The Maasai are traditionally nomadic but due to governmental pressure more have begun to establish more permanent residences. The draw back to this is that it allows the government to encroach on Maasailand territory and develop areas that aren’t claimed by the Maasai. The advantage to permanent homes is that the Maasai have now begun to grow crops, which had led to the average Maasai having a more balanced diet and better nutrition. Traditionally the Maasai diet would be only milk, meat, and blood. Blood was consumed in order to gain strength, either after a day tending to the herds, before battle, or after childbirth. Whatever nutrients they didn’t get from that they would usually have from some kind of medicine made from surrounding fruits and herbs. One tradition of the Maasai is to go into the hills where a certain plant grows and spent a few weeks alone there, feeding off of the plant. This plant is high in vitamin C and the ritual usually takes place before the coldest time of the year, it is meant to give the person the strength to make it through the rain and cold.

The Chagga diet is centered on bananas and maize. The maize is used to make ugali, a type of corn meal paste that is a staple for nearly every meal, and the bananas, in addition to being used in various foods, is used to make a banana beer called mbege. The Chagga territory is well suited for growing bananas and much of their culture is centered on it, many huts have roves made of banana leaves, which are amazing at keeping the rain out. Mbege was traditionally made for the elders and during their meetings they would pass around a large cup filled with the drink that they would all share. The passing around of a large cup of mbege still happens, but now it is no longer reserved for the elders, tourists are welcome to join in the drinking but most are scared away from the yeast still floating on the top of the drink. The Chagga tradition of drinking being a thing of social gathering has contributed to Tanzanian culture as a whole; the bar isn’t seen as a place to get drunk but a place to meet with all of your friends after work. This was interesting in comparison to Maasai culture, where the warriors were not allowed to have any form of alcohol.

The life of a Maasai man is broken up into three phases; the child, the warrior, and the elder. The children have the responsibility of taking the cattle out grazing, the warriors protect the village, and the elders are leaders of the village and lead spiritual rites. The warriors must be able to stay peak physical and mental condition so to be best suited for guarding the village, usually their duties are to stay up all night guarding against lions and hyenas. Because of this they are strictly forbidden to drink alcohol because it will slow their reflexes, impair their judgment, throw off their coordination, and make them prone to falling asleep. But they use the bark and roots of the acacia nilotica, which acts as a stimulant to keep them awake and alert while guarding or before a battle with an enemy tribe. The use of the acacia nilotica has become popular throughout Tanzania, people call them happy sticks, the sticks are very bitter and so when eating happy stick people will usually pair it up with chewing gum. You will regularly see roadside merchants with a large amount of gum for sale; this isn’t so much for the children as it is for those who use happy sticks. As far as I was able to gather, happy sticks are not illegal in Tanzania, this may be because Maasai warriors will sometimes come in to a city and work as a night guard and need to use the happy sticks to stay alert all night.

The Maasai working as night guards is an example of their slow assimilation into Tanzanian society. The Maasai are resistant to assimilating to modern society because they are afraid of loosing their cultural traditions, but slowly and sometimes reluctantly they have been becoming more modern. For a long time most Maasai were resistant of sending any of their children to school, this is understandable since schools can have a huge impression on a child’s development. At this point there are still some tribes who refuse to send any of their children to school, but most villages have begun to feel the importance of a formal education. What I found the most intriguing was how nearly every Maasai warrior I met had a cell phone. Before cell phones, the Maasai would use smoke signals or horns to signal to each other across the bush. But cell phone reception in Tanzania is much better than in America, you can get full reception in the middle of the Serengeti, so it became much easier for Maasai to just text message each other instead. This was one of the immersions into modern society that most Maasai were not as resistant to, though it forced them to find ways to earn actual money to pay for the phones. Traditionally Maasai society had a barter system, but as the modern world encroaches there is increasing pressure to earn money instead of trading goats and cows for what you want. Because of this more children are being sent to school and warriors are traveling to nearby cities to find a job to help support the village. Maasai warriors don’t only work as night guards; they also commonly work as guides for safari companies or taking photographs for various companies like National Geographic.

The Chagga are much more integrated into modern society and so you can’t exactly pin a certain profession to the tribe. But as you ascend Mount Kilimanjaro the surroundings become more rural, village society and you get a better idea of how traditional Chagga society was. The Chagga lifestyle is centered on agriculture, there are ancient canals that are still maintained and used for farming today. When German colonists arrived, the Chagga were able to adapt by changing their main crop from bananas to coffee. The Chagga profited from getting involved in the coffee trade, but when it came to international trade they weren’t able to keep up. Chagga style coffee doesn’t require a filter; you only need to add hot water, yet most locals will drink imported instant coffee, which generally tastes worse than Chagga coffee. Chagga tradition has been closely tied to economy, it’s tradition that the women trade goods at the market, and so it was easier for them to adapt to the use of currency instead of bartering. The Chagga also raised cattle and goats, but instead of taking them out to grazing fields like the Maasai, the Chagga kept their livestock in their hut with them. Most Chagga don’t live in their traditional huts, but a Chagga hut consisted of a bed for the father and a separate bed for the mother and children, on the other end of the hut would be an enclosure big enough for one or two cows and around three goats. In the middle of the hut would be a fire pit and above there would be an area where food would be stored because the smoke from the fire would help cure the food.

The Maasai believed that cattle were a gift from their god and felt all cattle were their property. Because of this, before German colonization, the Maasai were notorious for raiding villages and taking all of their cattle. To combat this the Chagga built cave networks that they would live in and keep their livestock. I visited one of these caves and it was difficult for me to imagine what it would be like living every day like that. The ceilings were low and the whole time you were down there you were between the crouching and sitting position, there wasn’t really anyway to stretch out your back. It was interesting that the Maasai had become such a problem for the Chagga that they would dig out an entire cave system that they would then live in for days at a time.

The Maasai also believe their god, Enkai, resides in the active volcano, Mount Kenya. Maasai will occasionally pray to Enkai and give it an offering of a goat or cow that is thrown into the volcano. When the German colonists of Tanzania decided on the border with the British colonists of Kenya, they purposely made Mount Kenya be in Kenyan territory so to make it difficult for Tanzanian Maasai to perform their religious rites and hopefully break their spirit. The Chagga and Maasai both had religions that consisted of a single god, but the Maasai are still resistant to Christianity while the Chagga are dominantly Christian. Both tribes still maintain some traditional rituals, but the Chagga generally will integrate it to Christian beliefs.

The spread of HIV can be attributed to some of these rituals, the Maasai stick practice female circumcision. Both males and females are circumcised when they are initiated as elders and usually the tool that is used is not cleaned between uses on different people and so if one of those people has HIV then it can be transmitted to everyone participating in the ritual. The Maasai have many rituals based around blood and warriors regularly test their physical endurance through trials of pain and a handful of these practices can put its participants at risk of transmission of HIV. Chagga tradition doesn’t have anything that can be directly linked to the transmission of HIV, but majorities of Chagga are Christian, primarily Catholic. The Catholic Church forbidding condoms leaves fewer options for protection against HIV transmission.

The Chagga and Maasai both have a folklore passed down through oral tradition. Both tribes use song and dance to tell their folk tales and both are patriarchic. There are only two matriarchic tribes in Tanzania and if people were to marry from different tribes, one patriarchic and the other matriarchic, the father would likely run the family. In both of the tribes the women play an important role, Chagga women have the responsibility of gathering the banana harvest and bringing it to market and Maasai women gather water and firewood. This being said, women’s rights are still not very progressive in either tribe or Tanzania as a whole. The Maasai conduct most of their rituals separate from each other, they believe that if women were to see them taking part in the ritual then it would loose its power, but the same goes vice versa. The Maasai believe that their men and women originally came from two separate tribes, each one dominated by only one gender. According to the story the all female tribe raised gazelle and antelope with the help of zebra and elephants, but the women bickered amongst each other so much that all the animals escaped. The tribe of men raised cattle and goats and so the women came to them when they lost their own livestock and asked to live with them, but because of this women are supposed to always serve the men and are no longer seen as equals.

A Maasai man is not allowed to marry until he has become an elder, but when he does become an elder he is allowed to have multiple wives. When a Maasai man becomes an elder he usually moves away from his father’s village to make his own and brings what wives he has with him. This means that each village is one family unit under one father and neighboring villages usually consist of relatives. The family is also very important to Chagga tradition; the Chagga belief system is focused around ancestry. Chagga stories trace a long chain of ancestry that is still recorded today, children and the elderly are considered important because of their closeness to the spirit realm; children have just come from the spirit realm while the elderly are about to return. There is a Chagga proverb of, “He who leaves a child lives eternally,” which illustrates the Chagga belief that ancestors will be reborn through their descendants. This is related to the Tanzanian culture of how you show respect; you always show respect to your elders and a respectful title like “sir” or “miss” are the Swahili words for grandfather and grandmother, babu and babi.

While I was in Tanzania I became friends with a Maasai warrior named Zac. After talking about our differences in culture Zac offered to take me to his tribe for a weekend. Zac was in Moshi because he was going to the university to study tourism; he wanted to make a cultural safari company that would allow tourists to experience an authentic Maasai lifestyle. His village was quite a distance away from Moshi, it was close to the Serengeti, and so we took the mode of transport popular to most traveling warriors, bus and dallah dallah. A dallah dallah is a large van that is used as the main public transport for most Tanzanians and the drivers will pack the van to absolute maximum capacity, so it wasn’t the most comfortable trip. We got off at a small roadside village and started to walk out towards the bush. Zac told me about how there used to be no village there and it had been built up without the permission of the Maasai, a result of more Maasai settling for more permanent housing because the Tanzanian government will move in and develop in areas not claimed by the Maasai. We walked for hours, when we finally got to the village there was no sign of modern life in sight. It was proper for when I was welcomed into the tribe to give some form of gift as a sign of gratitude. Back in Moshi I had bought pens and notebooks for the children that they could use in school, candy for the whole village, and rice for Zac’s mother. Zac’s mother was very happy to receive the rice and it was mainly what we ate for the entire time I was there. When we ate none of the children were allowed in the hut, it was only the other warriors, Zac’s mom, and me. This kind of exclusion of people from meals was a way that the Maasai ensured everyone respected their position within the village. I was given one of the largest servings that was very difficult to finish, the warriors had no problem finishing their serving and going for seconds, this is because the Maasai generally only eat breakfast and dinner and breakfast is always very large so to last through most of the day. Zac had to explain it as wazungu, white people, have smaller stomachs and so they can’t eat as much, it was the only way his mother would let me give my food to the other warriors and have her give me smaller servings.

After the meal we had chai, which turned out to be the best chai I had during the whole time I was in Tanzania; the only problem was that they served it in a metal cup and extremely hot. It seemed that any time we were idle we would be served chai, which was the main source of hydration in a place with so little water. When we went to sleep I shared a bed with Zac and to other warriors while the wife of one of the warriors and their children slept in a separate bed next to us, a hut design very similar to a Chagga hut. The next day I was given Maasai blankets to wear, a spear, and a piece of jewelry. Beaded jewelry is very popular with the Maasai, it is a sign of high status and the design of the beads can indicate from which generation of Maasai it was made, but unlike Western society men wear more jewelry than women. The spear is a trademark of the Maasai; they have a specific design of a long point on one end and a blade like a small sword on the other. The spear can be used for slashing, jabbing, and throwing; while it can and has been used against people the spears main purpose is to defend against lions. Lions are basically the sworn enemy of the Maasai, attacking not only their herds but people as well. In an effort to protect the species, the Tanzanian government promises to reimburse Maasai with any livestock lost to lions as long as the Maasai do not kill the lion, but if a lion kills one of their villagers the Maasai will still go out and get revenge by killing a lion. The Maasai have become expert trackers of lions and are common guides for nature photographers, but lions have begun to associate the bright red and purple blankets of the Maasai with danger. This generally means lions will take extra measures to avoid the Maasai, but there have also been known cases of lions targeting Maasai because of the colored blankets. The purpose of the brightly colored blankets is so that the Maasai can easily be seen among the brown surroundings of the African bush, if they need to signal someone in the distance or need help the blankets can be spotted from miles away.

When we returned from watching after the herds we had a goat sacrifice ritual. A strong goat was selected; it took a long time for the men to even decide which goat was good enough. This meticulousness was because the men were supposed to gain the strength from the goat to make up for what was lost that day. Nothing was wasted, the goat was suffocated so not to waste any blood, it was skinned so to be made into leather later, we drank the blood, cooked and ate the meat, and all of the remaining scraps, including the had and hooves, were put into a big pot of water and boiled into a stew. The blood was believed to hold the strength, in addition to this ritual there was another where they would cut the neck of a cow and drink straight from the neck, afterwards they would bandage the cut and the cow would walk away just fine.

Tanzanian culture is a quilt work of the numerous tribes that live within the country and can differ based off of the area you are in, in addition to being influenced by foreign cultures, primarily the English, German, Portuguese, and American. There are times where separate tribes have cultural similarities, even with the Chagga and Maasai which almost polar opposites, so it can sometimes be difficult to find the direct effect a single tribe has had on Tanzania. Both tribes have contributed to the tourist industry in Tanzania, as well as environmental conservation. Both have traditions that have been affected or altered by the Tanzanian government, lion hunting for the Maasai and coffee growing for the Chagga. The Chagga have become part of the traders of Tanzania, while the Maasai have become nature guides and guards. It seems that at this point the tribes are having less influence on Tanzanian culture as Tanzanian culture has been affecting tribal culture and with the addition of the influence of global culture things become convoluted. Many Tanzanians claimed that making Swahili the national language was something that united all of the tribes, could it be said that the melding of tribal traditions with modern society will further unite the people or will it cause people to loose their tribal identity?

Tanzania Teaching

So it's been quite a while since I've updated this blog, but now I'm gonna have four posts in one day. This blog was originally made for the study abroad classes I was taking while I went to Tanzania, thus the name "Giving Credit Where It's Due" because I was doing this all for school credits. It was agreed upon that I would write a large thesis paper for each of the four independent study classes I would be taking. There were four classes so to cover the fact that it would be the only classes I took for a full semester. Each of the four classes had a different topic for me to write my thesis about, them being my learning experience while in Tanzania, comparing the teaching styles of Tanzania and the United States, the cultural influence the tribes of the Chagga and the Maasai have had on Tanzania, and examining the effect tourism has on countries with a focus on the European countries I visited.Now that I've graduated I can share all of these essays with you, they are a great description and examination of the time I spent traveling. Each of the four posts will begin with this introduction before the actual essay, just to make sure all of you readers understand that these four posts are all my essays. I hope you enjoy.

Tanzania Teaching
(comparing teaching styles essay)

During my time volunteering in Tanzania I worked with children teaching them English and Math. I observed the importance and value of education in the country and the average level of education one receives. I saw the resources at their disposal, or lack there of, and what they needed most in order to improve their teaching abilities. There were interesting differences between the Tanzanian and American teaching standards and style. The hardest to adjust to was the use of corporal punishment, I never beat the children but it was the cultural norm to hit a child if they misbehaved. Some of the locals attributed this to German colonization, saying that the Germans used the locals for manual labor while Tanzania was a German colony and if a worker didn’t follow directions then they would be caned and so eventually that became impressed on the locals as how to react to someone who can’t follow direction to the point that when Tanzania became independent they still maintained the same mentality.

When I first began by three months in Tanzania I was assigned to volunteer at the primary school for the nearby village of Rau. I was paired with an English teacher who taught fourth and fifth grade. He was the only male staff member besides the headmaster in the entire school; most schools only have female teachers because it is one of the few jobs available for women. I was impressed when I arrived on the first day and saw the children tending to the plants in the courtyard, watering the plants from collected rainwater, but I was also shocked on the first day when I saw the headmaster threatening the students with his walking stick. It seemed obvious that the headmaster was holding back because he knew that we wouldn’t like seeing the children hit and he explained it, as the only way children in Tanzania understand discipline. I disagreed with him then, I still do, but I later learned why it was he had such a mentality. At first things went well at the primary school, though usually they just wanted me to grade the student’s work. Every day I would come in; either grade papers or sit in with the teacher I was paired with, then there would be a break where all the teachers would meet for chai while the children played outside. One time the students had asked me to come outside and play soccer with them, I wanted to but the teachers told me it was rude to not have chai with the other teachers. I didn’t always want the chai and it was always served piping hot no matter how hot it was outside, but I drake it anyway to respect their traditions. I also found it odd how strange the teachers thought it was that I wanted to play with the children, none of the teachers seemed to actually enjoy their job or being around the children. While we had chai some of the children would come in and offer a mango to one of the teachers, mangos are the equivalent to how children in the U.S. used to bring apples to their teacher, a little quirk I found interesting.

One thing was for sure, the school was under equipped, this didn’t surprise me but I didn’t really know the scope of how little they had. The text books that the teachers taught out of were exercise books originally made for children, but they couldn’t afford enough for each student and so they instead wrote the exercises up on the board and the children wrote it all into their notebooks. One thing I found was that Tanzanian education was centered more around memorization than comprehension, students could count to ten in English but point at the number five and most of them won’t be able to tell you what it is. I also began to notice the teacher I was paired with teaching the wrong pronunciations of words, once a child properly pronounced “changed” but then the teacher said they were wrong and needed to pronounce the “e” in the word, basically sounding like “change-ed.” I tried to correct the teacher later on but he didn’t seem too receptive to what I had to say. Then there was the day I got to teach a class on my own, the teacher was running late and I was allowed to teach the class on my own, though most of the other teachers didn’t seem to care whether or not the students actually got a class. My lesson was much more interactive and not straight out of the book, I wrote English words that most of the children understood, or that I could caricature, and then asked one of the children to tell me the Swahili word for it. I had to refer to my Swahili dictionary often, but the children really seemed interested in the lesson, especially when I allowed them to write the Swahili word on the board. When the teacher finally arrived he let me finish the class and said I had some good ideas for teaching, which he started to integrate into his lessons.

My partner teacher was an interesting character, he seemed be well informed but generally irresponsible. During our chai breaks he would enjoy having discussions with me about nearly anything that was on his mind. When he asked me what I wanted to do for a career I told him I wanted to write books, he was extremely happy about this but was under the impression that I meant text books, when I tried to tell him I wanted to write fiction he didn’t seem to fully understand. That was when I realized that reading for pleasure was something generally reserved for the upper class. All of the children in the primary school were literate, but most of them lived in a family that makes only enough money for food. Why buy a book instead of your next meal, the only justification would be if the book could teach you a skill that would lead to making more money, they could not afford the luxury of reading fantasy.

Things may have been difficult to adjust to while work at the primary school, but in general I was content with volunteering there, that was until my partner teacher decided to get drunk. During one class my partner teacher had me lead the class as he supervised, the first time I taught on my own it was with the sixth graders but this time it was with the fifth graders so it was much more challenging. In the middle of the class I turned away from writing something on the board and my partner teacher was nowhere to be seen. The children wrote the question I had put on the board and the four options for answers, but then told me they were done and none of them seemed to understand when I tried to tell them to circle on of the answers. Eventually I just left the classroom because the teachers didn’t seem to mind if their students didn’t get a full class, when I got to the teacher’s lounge my partner teacher wasn’t in there either. He finally arrived at the teacher’s lounge in time for chai and he smelled strongly of alcohol. We both went to the next class where he began to teach until a friend of his showed up. His friend was the head of a different volunteer organization that was building toilets for the school and he had brought some of the volunteers to meet the teacher. The teacher had me take over as he talked outside, though most of the children were more interested in what was going on outside and it was even more difficult to keep discipline since I had a very limited understanding of Swahili. But things got even worse when the teacher grabbed the buttock of one of the women volunteers; the children got completely out of control, laughing and pointing at what they saw their teacher do, and the volunteers quickly left. That was when I decided I didn’t want to work at the primary school any more.

Cross Cultural Solutions sends their volunteers to multiple places within the community depending on each volunteer’s skills. When I left the primary school I chose to work at a juvenile hall. My responsibility would be to teach math and English to the boys who were being held there, the main thing that interested me about this placement was a past volunteer who told me that I would be allowed to teach the children on my own in whatever style I wanted. The thing that had irritated me the most about the primary school was the seeming lack of commitment to teaching the children, I felt like I wanted to make more of my time and be more involved with the children and juvenile hall seemed like the place for that. The warden of the juvenile hall was Mr. Gumba, a kind man who was always smiling; it was slightly odd to see him work in a prison. But he was really the only kind face there; all the other workers were shrewd women who didn’t much other than sit at the entrance and beat the children. The children were a challenge, they ranged from being only seven years old to the oldest being sixteen and they could be in there for anything from stealing, rape, or even just truancy. If a child misses too many days of school they will be sent to juvenile hall for a week, not only did this seem overly strict, it also led to the children being around people who would just teach them more ways to get in trouble. The boys are kept in their bunkroom all day unless someone comes to do what I did for them and none of women at the front really supervised the children while they were in there so the children would frequently fight with each other.

When I first arrived I really stumbled through doing anything constructive with the boys, it was the stark opposite of primary school, I was completely on my own for about three and a half hours and only a slight idea of how to teach the kids. For the first few days I didn’t even know we has a supply cabinet and so I would have to use the sparse amount of chalk that was left out on the chalk board to teach the children English out of my phrase book. When I finally learned about the supply cabinet it became much easier to work with the children because it was filled with notebooks, pens, pencils, exercise books, and then a random collection of books mostly donated by previous volunteers. The amount of children were continuously in flux, at any point a new child could be admitted or one of the children could finish their sentence and be allowed to leave. It was an odd experience because you became attached to some of them, but you were happy to see them go because it meant they could go back to a normal life. One of the problems after the children left was that when they returned to school they were expected to be up to pace with all of the other students even though they had missed a large amount of the lessons. I tried my best to keep it at the proper level of education, I would ask each child what grade level they were at and have them work out of the appropriate exercise book, the books we had were the same as the ones I saw at the primary school. I usually let each of them choose the subject and assignment that they wanted to do, but I kept tabs on their exercises to make sure they didn’t just repeat the same assignment over and over.

I found that many of people in Tanzania, even those with behavior problems like the ones in juvenile hall, highly valued an education. They saw that education was directly related to being able to make more money; the main challenge for most Tanzanians is school fees. One year of primary school costs the equivalent of thirty dollars, but some families in Tanzania barely earn that much in a whole year. Since most of the people in Tanzania are subsistence farmers, every child is an extra pair of hands for the farm, which means that more time on the farm could mean a better harvest and more money and sending them to school is giving up time that they could be working on the farm. But nearly every family would send their children to school if it is at all possible, even if they had to walk miles to get there each day. Compare this to the United States where as a nation we do more to provide education to every citizen, but individually we do not value our education as much. It seems that because education is guaranteed to every child, they seem to forget how fortunate they are. In America we put a lot more importance on our entertainers who don’t require any real education.

The average day would consist of me arriving in the morning and the boys being let out of the bunkroom. A few of the children had the responsibility of making a porridge breakfast for everyone and generally we would wait until after breakfast to start the lessons. The problem with this is that is was very unpredictable how long it would take for breakfast to arrive and so sometimes we would spend half an hour just sitting around waiting for breakfast. Once the boys started their work I would go around to anyone who looked like they needed help and make sure everyone behaved. Usually we would spend the first half of the day doing schoolwork and the other half playing soccer. I found it was just as important for the boys to have some time outside when they can be physical as it was for them to do their schoolwork. Generally I would know when it was time for soccer when most of the boys started staring out the window or picking fights with the other boys. When they got some time for physical exertion they were less likely to fight amongst each other because they were tired.

Discipline was a real challenge with the boys at juvenile hall. Not only were they more likely to have behavioral problems, probably the reason they were in juvenile hall to begin with, but also only a few of them understood much English. On top of this, it was the norm in Tanzania to beat the children when they misbehaved and so children were much less receptive to just some strong words. Even when I yelled at the children in what little Swahili I knew, they generally would just laugh at my accent. It wasn’t until half way through my time volunteering that I had a local volunteer join me who could help in translation, the only problem was that the local volunteer who was sent to help me seemed very apathetic. She would usually just sit and read one of the donated books from the supply cabinet all day and just translate for me when I asked her to. I began to feel like there was a trend among educators in Tanzania, it seemed like none of them were in it for the passion of educating others. I began to learn how to discipline the children with non-violent physical actions, something that turned out to be quite a challenge. I began to understand why some people think hitting is proper form of discipline because some times those boys would try my patience so much that it would have felt so good just to smack one of them. But I feel that’s an improper and shortsighted way of dealing with people who misbehave and I’m glad that the days of corporal punishment in American schools are in the past. I found that when hitting was the only form of discipline then the children would only behave for fear of being hit, so instead of doing the right thing because they wanted to, they would do it because they were being watched.

Because of the Tanzanian teaching style of memorization, most of the children I worked with were very good at math. Things like multiplication came much easier to them than an average American student. But I never saw any of the students using a multiplication table and whenever I tried to make one for them they just ended up more confused, it seemed that they just started out with simple multiplication equations that could easily be linked to addition and then the equations just got steadily more complex. Songs helped the children remember concepts that might otherwise being difficult to understand, I think this is something that applies to all teaching styles, but in Tanzania they utilize it for most of their classes while American schools rarely integrate songs into their lesson plans past Kindergarten. Song and dance are very important in Tanzanian culture and so most children know how to dance by the time they know how to walk and nearly every child was skilled at playing a drum. If I had a better grasp on Swahili I would have tried to use drums to help teach fractions, but I also doubt many of the children knew how to read drum sheet music.

Tanzanian education is much more rigorous than American education, nearly every Tanzanian is bilingual or trilingual and a bachelor’s degree is usually completed in three years. A child is raised on the language of the tribe they belong to and they learn Swahili in Kindergarten, by third grade they beginning learning English. Primary school goes from grades one to seven, the equivalent of middle school and high school are secondary school ordinary level and advanced level. There isn’t as much pressure in Tanzanian society to have a continued education; most people don’t go much further than primary school or ordinary level secondary school. During ordinary level studies in secondary school there is a test after the first two years, the test is an assessment examination that determines if the student continues studying for the next two years. I found interesting, but also slightly unfair, that one test could decide so much about your future. And, to my knowledge, this was a permanent thing; if you scored low on the assessment test then you wouldn’t be allowed to carry on with your education and you wouldn’t get a job as good as someone who scored higher. This seems like something that most Americans wouldn’t be able to handle, one test deciding the rest of your economic fate that you could only take once. But I think that getting the best possible career isn’t a much of a priority for Tanzanians as it is for Americans, as long as they can make enough to afford a home and feed their family then that’s enough. It’s much easier to find a job you can support yourself on with a lower education in Tanzania, whereas here we have to continue all the way to a bachelor’s degree to be able to make a living wage and even then, the highest paying careers will require even further education.

While I was volunteering I met a man named Edward who was a student at the nearby university. He told me how there is a lot more time spent in class in Tanzanian universities than American universities, which I think is why many students are able to get a bachelor’s degree within three years. Most of those who go on to a college education in Tanzania are from wealthy families and so most can be full time students, spending all three years living in the campus dormitories and not needing to work a job while studying. More and more Americans have to spend more time working to pay for college than the time they spend actually in college, economic pressures have made it so that students have to take lesser classes and so they have to spend more years studying. In Tanzania it seemed that the mentality was that if you were getting an education that it should be your primary focus and nothing else should distract you from it, while in the US it seems that we are expected to juggle between multiple responsibilities. Edward also told me of a program through the university that takes all of the students on safari in the Serengeti; this was done to ensure that all of the students developed an appreciation for Tanzania’s natural beauty. This is something I really think more American universities should do, students should be taken to Yellowstone or Yosemite so that they can learn about America’s natural beauty and why we must preserve it. But for that to happen universities would need a better budget that would be able to support such a trip and the general American mentality would have to become more environmentalist, neither of which I see happening soon.

A lack of proper education is factor to the desperation of most Tanzanians, not only economically but also medically. There are no school run sex education courses because the schools feel that it’s a private matter that should be taught by the parents. In addition most school are affiliated with either a mosque or a church, most of which teach abstinence only sex education. A majority of Tanzanians are Catholic so they have conflict of not wanting to prevent themselves from having children, but trying to protect themselves from HIV. In addition to this, due to improper shipping, most condoms in Tanzania only have a sixty-five percent chance of working properly and most people aren’t educated on how to properly use a condom and so it’s even less likely that it will actually protect against HIV infection. A lack of education also leads a lot of people to believe the superstitions of witch doctors, who sometimes give advice that actually ends up spreading HIV instead of preventing it.

The main challenges I see for Tanzanian education is getting dedicated educators, developing some form of government run public education, and reaching their entire population, most of which live in villages that are difficult to access. For the most part I see Tanzanian society to be very similar to American society from the 1940s, with some cultural variations, with time I feel that they will develop in a way similar to our own development. The difference being that globalization has brought some modern technologies that have changed major aspects of society and that Tanzania is not a key player internationally and so they tend to be at the mercy of more powerful nations. But I see education as a means for Tanzania to become more involved on a global scale.

Turning to Tanzania

So it's been quite a while since I've updated this blog, but now I'm gonna have four posts in one day. This blog was originally made for the study abroad classes I was taking while I went to Tanzania, thus the name "Giving Credit Where It's Due" because I was doing this all for school credits. It was agreed upon that I would write a large thesis paper for each of the four independent study classes I would be taking. There were four classes so to cover the fact that it would be the only classes I took for a full semester. Each of the four classes had a different topic for me to write my thesis about, them being my learning experience while in Tanzania, comparing the teaching styles of Tanzania and the United States, the cultural influence the tribes of the Chagga and the Maasai have had on Tanzania, and examining the effect tourism has on countries with a focus on the European countries I visited.Now that I've graduated I can share all of these essays with you, they are a great description and examination of the time I spent traveling. Each of the four posts will begin with this introduction before the actual essay, just to make sure all of you readers understand that these four posts are all my essays. I hope you enjoy.
Turning to Tanzania (Learning experience essay)


When one thinks of Africa, what is the first thing to come to mind? Is it the amazing animals and the stunning natural beauty or is it starving children in countries run by military dictators? We see so much about Africa through our media, but whether it is Bono, Invisible Children, NPR, or Discovery Channel, we are shown things to bring up a desired reaction. There was a moment when I was with some fellow volunteers socializing with some of the locals, one of the volunteers was having pictures of her taken with one of the children. The child was quite large, a sign of wealth because the family had more than enough to feed the child, and the volunteer was commenting on how her friends back home would not believe that she was actually in Africa because they were expecting to see malnourished children. The three months I spent in Tanzania helped me gain a better understanding of Africa, the rest of the world, and myself.

When I came to Tanzania I came with all kinds of ideas of how I would help to better people’s lives. I found that there were many people who were grateful for your help, but just as many who wanted to take advantage of it. There were people who would beg for money but then there were those who would sell tourist trinkets. These vendors were persistent, if you told them you didn’t want anything they would continue to try and sell you something acting as if they didn’t understand you, if you kept walking they would follow you, and if you bought something from them the next day they would be there again. This time they would say they needed the money to pay for something like the doctor bill for his friend who broke his leg and if you bought something from him again he’d be there again the next day, but this time it would be money needed to buy medicine for his sick mother. Eventually I came to the realization that if you give money then you don’t know if it will be used properly, if you give objects then the person you’re giving them to may come to expect things from you and become dependant; the best way to help someone in need is to teach them a skill that allows them to make a better life for themselves. There was one woman who was taught to make corn bread cakes and from this she began to sell the cakes through her village and now she owns many of the homes in her village. Some people might say that it’s selfish just to teach someone a skill, we have so much and they have so little and teaching them a skill still makes it so they must struggle to make a life for themselves while we live such an easy life. There was an organization of women with AIDS who made money for themselves by making various clothing and fabrics and one of the volunteers from Cross Cultural Solutions wanted to help them buy new sewing machines and other materials for their business and so donated a large sum of money, but instead of using it for materials the head of the organization took the money for herself to start her own business and the women’s organization told Cross Cultural Solutions to no longer send volunteers to help them. As pessimistic as it sounds, you can never be certain about how much you can trust someone, especially when those people are economically desperate. In desperation good people will do bad things.

I also observed among the locals that when someone was extremely poor they could still find happiness in small things. On television we see the ads for charity organizations that want to feed the hungry in places like Ethiopia and the images they show are of people who look absolutely miserable. Not to argue that those people aren’t actually miserable in their situation, but it gives us the impression that everyone in Africa is like that. There are large amounts of people who live in the city but don’t have enough money to have a decently sized home and so live in the equivalent to a storage unit. Within this room, which is usually no larger than seven square feet, people will fit as much as they can inside and activities like cooking and cleaning are usually done outside. To most of us such cramped living conditions would be one of the worst ways to live, but for most Tanzanians that’s not what defines happiness. Tanzanian culture emphasizes the importance of family and community, so happiness is usually derived from things like seeing relatives and friends. On the other hand, American culture emphasizes the importance of self-improvement and competition and so we derive our happiness from what we feel like our status is, which is usually defined by how much money and how many things you have. Finding happiness in things is shallow and temporary and usually leads to having to frequently get more in order to keep us happy, sometimes to the point that it can be called an addiction. Tanzanians can become addicted just like anyone else, but for most Tanzanians their economic standing has no direct influence on their happiness.

My own materialistic American mindset also influenced my expectations. At first I thought that nearly everything would be mud huts and that wild animals would be roaming around everywhere. I turned out to be living in more of a metropolitan area with a fair deal of infrastructure. Most homes had electricity, but most of them had a hole in the ground for a toilet. I was surprised by people’s body odor due to lack of bathing because of minimal running water, but I was also shocked to see ice cream being sold in stores. My expectations of Tanzania and how it really was were somewhat parallel, I expected a lack of various necessities and yet I expected luxuries, something that I now see as being utterly ridiculous. But even though Tanzania is a third world country that is lacking a large amount of seemingly required technologies people still have cell phones and DVD players, listen to western rappers, and watch British football games. Once I found out how Tanzania really was I began to understand the true scope of globalization. Globalization isn’t only limited to western businesses selling products that diminish local culture, it is an integration of the entirety of western lifestyle into another country. Corporations are not the only contributors to globalization, tourism causes hotels and other agencies, like safari companies, to try to make an experience with all the comforts of home and so go great lengths to provide any luxury a tourist might request. Charities come in wanting to help but by the western standards of what people need to have a better life.

As misled as I was about the Tanzanian way of life, so were the Tanzanians about my way of life. Most of the only Westerners that they encounter are tourists and usually they have large sums of money to throw around to go on safaris. Because of this many Tanzanians think that Westerners don’t have to work for money, that they earn money out of leisure. But they were shocked by the reality; in Tanzania you get up to go to work when the sun rises and you close up shop and leave work when the sun sets and so many were surprised when they heard that nearly all Western societies have their workers come in for a required amount of hours and get paid less if they work less hours. They were also surprised that there were poor people in America; many were under the impression that every citizen had more money than they knew what to do with and they were shocked to hear that thieves also existed in America. These misconceptions about Western tourists explained why some people would come to tourists begging for money. In their minds these tourists have more than enough money and the only reason that they aren’t sharing any is because they’re greedy.

As I mentioned before, Tanzanians generally would not want American work hours. There are many aspects of Western life that Tanzanians are happy to do without and most of that revolves around the phrase “hakuna matata” which means “no worries.” This is a phrase that is frequently uttered by most Tanzanians and it basically displays the Tanzanian mindset of taking it easy. With our busy life style of scheduling nearly everything in our lives and rushing from one thing to the next, many tourists find it comforting to come to a much more laid back society. But “hakuna matata” can also be blamed for something taking much longer to finish than usual. Say there is a road that needs to be repaved, the workers might say, “hakuna matata, I’ll get to it tomorrow” and stop half way through repaving the roads. As another example, when I was volunteering at a juvenile hall I went with one of the children to his court hearing. Many people who commit a crime in Tanzania must wait for a long time to even be proven guilty, they will be asked to come before the court and then be turned away, being told to come back at a later date. The boy I was with had been awaiting trial for eight months; we had to wait for hours before he was admitted into the courtroom, only to be told to come back in a few weeks. Additionally, part of the reason we had to wait so long was due to there being only a handful of judges that worked with juvenile cases and the judge who had been assigned to this boy had been taking time off and they needed to find a replacement judge. Apparently the judge’s wife had a child, but he had been taking time off for over ten months. As exasperated and frustrated this made me feel, many of the locals just shrugged it off saying that was how things worked there. It angered me that so many people with such big responsibilities would put it off for so long.

There were multiple things I had trouble adjusting to while I was in Tanzania, but one cultural difference I didn’t have any problems with was the hospitality. In Tanzania you are a bad host if you don’t offer food or drink to visitors and it is an insult to not accept. Whenever the other volunteers and I came to visit one of the locals they would offer us something and I would readily accept, but some of the other volunteers would decline the offer. They would later tell me that they thought it was inconsiderate of me to eat their food because I have plenty of food for myself and they might not. But if you don’t accept food when someone offers they feel that you think their food is dirty or something is wrong with it, which I explained to the other volunteers in addition to asserting that I never asked for seconds, I did what was polite without taking advantage of their hospitality. Much of the manners of eating in Tanzania are centered on portraying you don’t think the food is dirty, which is the opinion most tourist have of Tanzanian food. There are a few things that could be better, like the fact that meat and fish is sold in an open-air market usually with many flies landing on the meat. But most of the Western world sees Africa as an extremely dirty place and though the standards of hygiene are different, it doesn’t make Africans dirty by default.

As much as we wanted to help people in Tanzania, many of the volunteers had an air of entitlement and acted as if they deserved better than everyone else because they had money. There was one volunteer who had bought a three hundred dollar dress specifically for the trip and decided to donate it to one of the locals when she left. To her that must have seemed a very humanitarian thing, but most of us were thinking that three hundred dollars could have been put to better use by helping to buy food or clothing or paying for children to go to school. There was another volunteer who went on safari and complained that for the price she paid to go on the trip, she shouldn’t have to put her own tent up. Some of the volunteers seemed to have come to Tanzania not to help others but to help them feel good or just to see the sights. It can be debated over whether or not any of the volunteers had truly come to Tanzania completely for selfless reasons, but there were some who didn’t seem to have anyone in mind beside themselves. It was from this that I not only learned that there are wrong ways to help people, but there are also wrong reasons to help people. Invisible Children was a film that effectively helped people empathize with people in Africa, but it seems that some people will then go about “helping” people because they feel guilty and think that if they put in enough time then they won’t have to feel bad about their wasteful lifestyle back home and forget about the stirring images they saw in the film. I wouldn’t want to turn away help just because a person wants to help for selfish reasons, but sometimes those people end up being detrimental more than anything else. When someone volunteers for completely selfish reasons they usually want to find the quickest way to make them feel like they helped out and this can lead to them hurting the volunteer organizations efforts and hinder their progress.

There were also people who came to try to get away from something back home. For some it was finances or responsibility and for others it was escaping the social dramas of their friends and family. One volunteer was spending three months in Tanzania and before had spent three months volunteering in Peru. It later turned out that she had just graduated from high school, was taking a year off of school and was indecisive about what she wanted to do with the rest of her life. Her parents were pressuring her to go to college and she had been traveling in an attempt to avoid making a decision on if and where she would go to college. A few volunteers had ranked up huge amounts of credit card debts, usually by traveling so much. Some had lost their home or their job and they felt like putting their life on pause and going to another country. One of the problems with that was that these people usually ended up ranking up even more debt from all the tourist activities they took part in while they were there. It almost felt similar to the mentality of. “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas,” it seems that tourists extend this to almost anywhere that isn’t their home. There was actually a big problem of the female volunteers getting romantically involved with locals. The women were motivated largely by wanting to experience something “exotic,” while the local men find white women to be very attractive and I wouldn’t be surprised if some of their motivation was rooted in the possibility of getting some money. Cross Cultural Solutions generally discouraged against this because they were rarely healthy relationships, it led to some men becoming economically dependant on women who were really only looking for a temporary thrill, and there was even incident where one woman had been involved with multiple men, who all tried to come visit her at the same time. Non-volunteers are not allowed within the CCS compound for security reasons and these men did not know about the others being involved with the same woman and when they found out a fight broke out in front of the compound. The CCS security had to go out and break up the fight, the woman was asked to leave, and the reputation of CCS was damaged among the community.

Upholding reputation is important for CCS in Tanzania. There are so many different volunteer organizations and not all of them have the same intentions on how to help, some do nothing more than exacerbate things, so locals need to be mindful of volunteers and make sure they continue to uphold their promise to the community. I was always conflicted with some of the religiously affiliated charity organizations in Africa, it seemed that it would be too easy for such an organization to begin spreading religious indoctrination. There were two orphanages that I spent some of my free time volunteering at while I was in Tanzania, Upendo and Tuleni, Upendo was church run while Tuleni was just run by a woman named Mama Faraji. Upendo also had a school attached for educating the orphans, but as I spent time there the children seemed really mistreated by the women working there. While corporal punishment is accepted as the norm in Tanzania, these nuns occasionally would use excessive force hitting the children or would hit them for what seemed to be no reason. The children were given three meals a day of ugali, a type of corn paste that is a staple in Tanzania, and beans with some milk to drink, we later found out that the milk they had during their meals was the only liquids the children were given. The women working there did this because they didn’t want the children to wet themselves throughout the day, but when I came to visit they would wipe the sweat off of my body and then lick it off of their hands, that’s how dehydrated they were. Most of these women weren’t nuns but just local young girls who were working there to learn how to be a proper mother, as you can see they weren’t doing a very good job.

Then take Tuleni, which was nothing more than a house one woman owned and decided to make into an orphanage. The building wasn’t nearly as nice as Upendo and sometimes the children would have to share one bed between four or five people, but it was obvious that all the children were happy and loved. The people who worked at the orphanage genuinely enjoyed being with the children and they were all properly fed and hydrated. Mama Faraji was always smiling and doing everything she could to make life better for the children; she made money by raising pigs on a property nearby the orphanage, she came to visit the children often and would play games and sing songs with them, and on Easter she made a big feast for all the children, played music, gave out candies, and had special games. Upendo is a place with the claims of goodwill and helping others, but really falls short of what they claim, while Tuleni never makes any claims but goes above and beyond what is expected of them. I also feel that the school at Upendo is an opportunity to religiously indoctrinate the children from a young age instead of giving them the freedom to choose their own beliefs when they get older.

Nearly all the volunteers, including myself, came to Tanzania with the idea that we were going to make a difference. By the end I wouldn’t say that we had lost that drive, but it had become much more realistic, we knew the effect that one person could have. One person does have the capability to change someone’s life, for better or worse, but one person cannot solve every problem. While I was volunteering at the juvenile hall there was so much I wanted to do for those kids. I wanted to give them better beds, education, hygiene, food, shoes, there was seemed to be no end in sight. But I learned that I was only capable of so much, if I tried to do all that I wanted I would only end up flat broke and completely exhausted. At first I bought soap for the children so they could wash their clothes, but soon everyone was asking for soap on a daily basis. Then it was shoes; the kids kept coming to me asking first aid for their injured feet, so I bought shoes so they could all have protected feet. But then the shoes would be broken in a week or a new kid would be sent to juvenile hall and he would want shoes. Eventually I learned to stop buying them things directly; instead I set up a garden. I talked to the warden about the large amount of property behind the building that wasn’t being used for anything and we decided to make it into a small farm because the warden told me about how the government funds for the prison weren’t enough for properly feeding the children. I went out and bought seeds for maize, beans, peanuts, and zucchini. My hope is that it will make enough food to properly feed the children, but also generate enough seeds so that there can be food for next year.

When I didn’t show up to teach the children at juvenile hall they would be locked in the bunkroom for the entire day. The place reeked of urine from the bathrooms that were directly connected to their bunkroom and had no ventilation. When they were locked in there was no one watching over them so there is a lot of fighting among the kids with no one to break it up. There wasn’t much I could do to change those situations but I wanted to make it at least more enjoyable to be in the room they spend most of their time in. The children loved Bob Marley, nearly everyone in Tanzania did, and so I painted “let’s get together and feel alright” across the wall in their bunkroom. They really seemed to enjoy it and it helped them learn a few more words in English.

At one point I met some Pakistani men who had moved to Tanzania and started up some kind of business. It seemed odd to me that of all places they would choose to move to Tanzania; I could slightly understand with the men who had come from some of the Arab countries, they had left because of war, but others had grown up in England and decided to start a business in Tanzania. Part of it was because they said that they just enjoyed the Tanzanian lifestyle more, much more relaxed compared to a place like England, but I also realized that I was shocked because of my American perspective of a place like Tanzania. If you asked most Tanzanians they would tell you that they wouldn’t want to leave home and move to America, they know that life might be better for them there but most of them just couldn’t leave their family. I realized that Tanzania wasn’t a place that needed to be saved, people were able to find happiness there, but they did need help. I stopped seeing myself as some kind of valiant selfless person rushing in to save the needy, but just another human being offering a helping hand. These people who had moved to Tanzania had the same love for the country as the locals, they had found a way to make a living and were just enjoying life.

But life in Tanzania certainly isn’t easy. When I first arrived it was supposed to be the beginning of the rainy season, but it wasn’t until two month later that it actually began to substantially rain. Before I came to Africa I never understood the true significance of a drought, with sprinkler systems and running water in every home we don’t really care whether it rains or not. But in Tanzania most farms don’t have an irrigation system and depend on the rains to water the crops. It rained a few times a month after I had arrived, but these were brief sprinkles between days of extreme heat. Some people would get excited by these rains, thinking that the rainy season had finally come and sow their seeds, but then the heat afterwards would dry the seeds up so they would never grow. For some people, they only earn enough money to buy enough seeds to feed themselves for the next year and so when all their seeds have dried up there’s nothing left for them, no more seeds to plant and no money to buy more seeds. I had never experienced a situation where rain decided whether or not people would have to deal with starvation for the next year. Rain always seemed like something petty, even obnoxious, but for these people a lack of rain could completely ruin their life. Once the rains finally came it was pouring, so much that one night there was a flash flood. The next morning a whole section of the CCS compound’s fence was missing. That was also when we learned that most of the piping system in Tanzania is made with ceramic pipes, which were broken during the flash flood, so now those few who had running water had to go without. The cruel irony was that without rain was the threat of starvation, now that the rains had come the flash flood had washed away people’s crops and sometimes even their entire house. Some of the locals joked that people had prayed too hard for rain and so they got too much. I was thrown off by a society that was still at the will of nature and I found that many of the locals cared more about their effect on nature because of it. Every local I talked to attributed the drought to global warming, but also they didn’t really have the luxury to live greener. In Tanzania people will burn their trash, but if they don’t there’s really no other way to get rid of it, cars in Tanzania spew smog but it’s the only cars that are even available. But also Mount Kilimanjaro was a daily sight in the city I was living in and there had been a visible change in the snowcaps in the past few years, Mount Kilimanjaro was a symbol of the people and so this change in the snowcaps was important to everyone. Not to mention that the glacial melts fed all of the creeks and streams that some people depended on. Climbing Kilimanjaro isn’t nearly as significant any more because the peak is no longer covered in snow, there’s still some but the peak used to be completely snow covered all year round.

So what did I learn, what had changed when I got back home? I observed some of my fellow volunteers return to their normal lives as if nothing had happened, almost oblivious to the fact that they had been to a country so different from our own except that they got some great pictures. There were so many memorable, once in a lifetime experiences that there is no way I couldn’t have been changed by my trip. The most common thing you hear from people is that they learned to not live such a wasteful life because they saw people who had so little while we have so much. While this is good to recognize, it still something of a shallow observation. Such a mindset still sets them at a different level, lower, than us when we really need to see them as equals. The reason that many Third World nations are in such economic desperation is because Western countries, like the US, don’t see them as equals and exploit them for whatever resources they can find. Being less wasteful because you observed poverty doesn’t make anything better for those who are poor, it just means that you feel guilty and make yourself feel better by some small act. I try to live my life in a less wasteful way, but I also try to avoid supporting any organization exploiting Third World nations, the only problem being that there are hardly any organizations that don’t profit off of some countries exploitation.

On a more personal level I became much calmer. I saw that there were so many things that I had worried so much about that had no real impact on the rest of my life. I began to think of things on a much larger scale, worrying about getting a job instead of getting a girlfriend or buying food instead of buying video games. But you could say this is just me becoming more mature, but I feel being completely on my own in a place entirely unfamiliar to me was necessary for me to be able to mature. Becoming close with some of the people in Tanzania also helped expand my viewpoint of the world, but it also helped me understand how to do the same for others. Many people don’t care about what goes on in the rest of the world, not because they’re callus but because they just don’t think about other parts of the world. It’s hard to make someone feel that what goes on in another country is important if the country isn’t frequently on their mind. People hear the number of people killed by AIDS or malaria or genocide and they don’t pay much attention to it because all it is to them is numbers. If you want someone to pay attention to a cause, give it a face; that’s why charities trying to feed starving children in Africa are well known to the average person, because it shows the actual children. We are much more likely to want to help one person who we can see than a hundred people that we read about. Much more people would support environmentalism if they saw first hand the drastic effects climate change is having on the rest of the world, but it still won’t be effective until you have a person who is currently suffering because of this change. So the most important lesson from this whole journey is the effect of an individual. We don’t have the power to change the world like I had thought when I first arrived in Tanzania; but we each create a ripple through our actions, no matter how small, which can lead to much larger changes. When I first arrived I thought I could change things right away and do it all on my own, but I learned that my own actions could start something that could lead to changing someone’s life. The best way I could help was to contribute something that was likely to lead to something better, teach English or math, teach how to sew, give seeds for crops.

Teaching is really the best contribution a person can make to someone in need and not just traditional school education, any form of knowledge given to another person can lead to multiple possibilities. Impoverished nations usually have a large uneducated population and because of this they are more likely to be manipulated and taken advantage of by others. The rampant spread of HIV is due to a lack of proper HIV and sex education; in such an uneducated environment people will believe witch doctors that tell them that having sex with three virgins will cure your HIV. When someone has been properly educated they are less likely to believe such superstitions and generally become more likely improve their state of life; the best way to aid a suffering community is to educate the masses.